Copenhagen Fashion Week SS27: Every Brand

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Copenhagen Fashion Week SS27 ran August 3 to 7, 2026, the 20th anniversary season of the event. The official schedule had 34 shows and presentations, from established Danish labels to first-time runways, student collections and a New York guest. Most coverage picked a handful of favorites. This report covers every brand on the schedule, because the smaller names are where the week's new ideas came from.

At a glance

The season, by the numbers

Item	Detail
Dates	August 3 to 7, 2026
Official shows and presentations	34
Main schedule	18
NEWTALENT and NEWTALENT alumni	5
One to Watch	3
Zalando Visionary Award winners	3
Fashion schools	3
Debut and guest slots	Almada Label (debut), Collina Strada (International Guest Slot)
Sustainability screening	19 minimum standards, reviewed by a committee led by Rambøll
Next edition	AW27, February 1 to 5, 2027

Part I

The full SS27 line-up

Main schedule: Baum und Pferdgarten, By Malene Birger, Caro Editions, Freya Dalsjø, Gestuz, Henrik Vibskov, Herskind, La Bagatelle, Marimekko, Mfpen, MKDT Studio, Mr. Larkin, Munthe, O. Files, OpéraSport, Skall Studio, Stine Goya and The Garment.

CPHFW NEWTALENT: Anne Sofie Madsen, Stem and Studio Constance. NEWTALENT alumni: Alectra Rothschild / Masculina and Nicklas Skovgaard.

One to Watch: Renè, Sson and Taus. Debut: Almada Label.

Zalando Visionary Award winners: Institution (2026), Iamisigo (2025) and Paolina Russo (2023). International Guest Slot: Collina Strada.

Schools: Scandinavian Academy of Fashion Design, Swedish School of Textiles and The Royal Danish Academy.

Not on the calendar this season: Ganni and Cecilie Bahnsen.

Part II

The shows people talked about most

Alectra Rothschild / Masculina

Shown late on Tuesday in the Cisternerne, a former underground water reservoir, the collection was titled "Doll Parts (A transsexual Choreography)." Bugle-bead embroidery, denim fishnet, inflatable latex and corsetry. Dazed called it "the most energetic show of the week," and Vogue Scandinavia covered it as Masculina's return to the runway.

Collina Strada

Hillary Taymour's New York label made its Copenhagen debut in the first International Guest Slot, supported by The Climate Pledge. "Delirium in Bloom" was made entirely from studio deadstock and remnants and shown by the water at sunset to a string quartet. Hunger called it "controlled chaos."

Institution

Galib Gassanoff's Milan label won the Zalando Visionary Award 2026, which comes with 50,000 euros and production support. Its sixth collection, "YAD," sent models barefoot in handmade jorabs over carpets from the Caucasus and Central Asia. Bricks said its minimalism "felt anything but simple."

Anne Sofie Madsen

"The New Desire" was her third and final NEWTALENT season: sheer chiffon, hand-smocked organza and live recorder by Michala Petri. A Nike collaboration gave the First Sight Shadow shoe its first women's runway.

Paolina Russo

"Lone Star" at Nørrebrohallen was open to the public, with models skating the runway while Grace Ives and Haloplus+ performed. Bricks called it "a masterclass in cool-girl dressing."

OpéraSport

Awa Malina Stelter and Stephanie Gundelach opened the calendar with "Growth" on a gravel runway in the gardens of Carlsberg founder Carl Jacobsen. Lace, floral brooches and the return of the brand's swimwear, in chalk, stone and grey.

Baum und Pferdgarten

"After the Rehearsal" looked at what dancers wear once rehearsal ends: leg warmers, capris and a fawn-spotted trench. Coveteur called it "one of the hottest seats at CPHFW."

Part III

Every other brand on the schedule

By Malene Birger

"Halcyon" was the label's first runway in six years, shown at sunset at creative director Emilie Martinsen-Kønigsfeldt's family home. Mona Tougaard closed.

Henrik Vibskov

Marked 25 years in fashion with a performance-art show built on textile manipulation, cut-out coats and ruching.

Nicklas Skovgaard

His 13th collection invented a 1960s girl group, "The Skovgaardettes." Models arrived in vintage cars, with gingham, peplums, HOFF sneakers and HVISK bags.

Mfpen

Sigurd Bank's label returned for its 10th anniversary and showed in its own office and atelier: coffee-stained silk shirts, creased wool shorts and a deliberately imperfect New Balance 992.

Stine Goya

Painterly florals inspired by Florian Illies' book "1913." Leslie Jones attended.

Caro Editions

Caroline Bille Brahe closed the week with "Caro Club": 1980s power dressing and vintage Levi's reworked with deadstock Chanel trims. Erin Wasson walked.

Marimekko

Showed at Langelinieskuret on the theme of the art, the artist and the landscape.

The Garment

Sophia Roe and Charlotte Eskildsen showed "The Tourist" among the Neoclassical sculptures of the Thorvaldsens Museum.

Skall Studio

Julie and Marie Skall's "La Piscine" was shown in a garden during a summer shower.

Herskind

A collection that progressively undressed, from military tailoring to feathers, closing to Madonna's "Danceteria."

Mr. Larkin

Casey Blond's label staged its first-ever Copenhagen runway, "Lucky." Bricks called the color combinations "mouth-watering."

Munthe

Led what Neo2 called the allotment-core trend, with a feminine take on gardener's dungarees.

Gestuz

Animal prints and peplums. Hunger named it one of the most talked-about shows for its runway inclusivity.

MKDT Studio

Fringe-trimmed scarves and feather T-shirts.

Almada Label

The Helsinki label, founded in 2020, made its Copenhagen debut with layered pieces that Coveteur said felt "more winter than summer."

Freya Dalsjø

Seasonless pieces in natural fibers, including Taroni silk, developed with her mother and shown at Etage Projects for 60 guests.

Renè

Jens Skov Østergaard and Kridipat Østergaard's runway debut, "Sea Marked," drew on Nordic seafaring and the Skagen Painters. All deadstock, shown at Nordatlantens Brygge, a 1767 warehouse.

Taus

Freyja Taus and Juho Lehiö showed upcycled pieces that took the Taus classics into lighter territory.

Sson

Yulia Kjellsson's beach-themed presentation used inflatable rings as skirts. Hypebae called it one of the season's most underrated shows.

Stem

Sarah Brunnhuber works in zero-waste weaving with recycled cotton and Tencel, and made upcycled deadstock looks with Ganni.

Studio Constance

The first Swedish brand in NEWTALENT, focused on garments made to be reused, recycled and resold, with laser-cut lace this season.

Iamisigo

Bubu Ogisi's "Sacred Ecologies" used banana fiber, sisal and recycled aluminium, alongside an installation reworking Adidas pieces.

O. Files

Reworked the Adidas BW Army trainer in hand-pleated leather.

La Bagatelle

On the official main schedule.

The schools

The Royal Danish Academy showed 14 MA graduates under the title "Cut From Many Cloths." The Swedish School of Textiles showed more than 20 student collections, including LED dresses and coats made from tights. The Scandinavian Academy of Fashion Design also showed on the schedule.

Also during the week: Solitude Studios

Not on the official 34, but Dazed put it among its best shows of the week. "Time Will Tell" used sequins and lace drawn from the limestone quarries of southern Zealand.

Part IV

Trends, rules and partnerships

Scandi maximalism. FashionUnited saw the week move away from pure minimalism, naming five trends: vanilla off-white, oversized peplums, mixed prints, black capri leggings and animal prints.
Lace everywhere. It ran through OpéraSport, The Garment, Mr. Larkin, Paolina Russo and Studio Constance.
Sneaker collaborations. Nike with Anne Sofie Madsen, Adidas with O. Files and Iamisigo, and New Balance with Mfpen.
The rules. Every brand was screened against 19 minimum sustainability standards, including no destruction of unsold stock, fur-free collections and zero-waste sets. The two materials standards were suspended for SS27 while the rules are revised.

The takeaway. Copenhagen's best-reviewed shows this season came from the edges of the schedule: an alumni label in an underground reservoir, a guest from New York working only in deadstock, an award winner from Milan. Copenhagen is now where emerging brands get seen, and the full line-up is worth knowing, not just the top five.

Sources

Where these facts come from

Planning to attend the next edition? Read our Copenhagen Fashion Week guide.